Lay the chicken thighs in one layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Season generously on both sides with salt and pepper. With fingers, a fine-mesh sieve or sifter, dust the thighs very lightly with flour, then shake off any excess.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a deep, wide skillet or, preferably, a Dutch oven over medium. When oil is wavy, add 3 or 4 thighs to the pan, making sure not to crowd them. Cook thighs gently for about 5 to 8 minutes, turning with tongs about halfway through, just until faintly browned, then transfer to a clean plate. Repeat with remaining thighs. Set thighs aside and wipe out the pan.
Add 2 tablespoons butter to the pan. When it sizzles, add onion, and season with salt and pepper, stirring to coat. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until completely softened but not browned, about 8 to 10 minutes, adjusting heat as necessary.
Raise heat to medium-high. Add wine, tomato paste, bay leaf, nutmeg and cayenne. Stir to combine and continue cooking until wine has evaporated, about 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons flour over the mixture and stir well. When the mixture begins to dry out, add 2 cups broth, whisking rapidly as the mixture begins to thicken. When it begins to simmer, whisk in 2 more cups, then repeat with the final 2 cups.
Add the thighs and any accumulated juices to the pot and bring everything to a gentle simmer. Cover, leaving lid ajar. Cook until thighs are tender when probed with a fork, about 40 minutes. Remove chicken. Reduce broth over medium-high heat to a gravylike consistency, stirring occasionally, about 5 to 7 minutes.
Skim any rising surface fat. Taste and adjust seasoning. Turn off heat.
Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables: Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add carrots and simmer for 6 to 9 minutes, until tender. Remove and set aside. Now cook the turnips for about 5 minutes, until tender, then remove and add to carrots. Drain the pot, wipe out and set aside vegetables.
When ready to serve the vegetables, in the same pot, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms and leek, and cook, stirring often, for 2 minutes without browning. Add peas, limas, artichokes, carrots and turnips. Season vegetables with salt and pepper, and stir gently to combine. Add 1 cup water and put on the lid. They should all be heated through in 5 to 6 minutes.
To serve the chicken, return thighs to sauce and bring to a simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the crème fraîche. Prepare the herb topping: Mix herbs and lemon zest in a small bowl.
Transfer chicken and sauce to a serving bowl or individual shallow bowls. Sprinkle with herb mixture. Garnish with some of the vegetables; pass the rest in a separate dish, leaving the liquid behind.
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